Isle Voices
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Anguilla · English

Anguilla

A quiet limestone ribbon in turquoise water

Malik

Your host · English

Malik

Island host

Malik fishes the reef at dawn and talks like the island itself: unhurried, precise, a little dry. He knows every cove where hawksbills still haul out and every backyard that still boils mauby.

Anguilla is long, low, and deliberately unhurried: coral limestone, salt ponds, and beaches that feel private even when they are not. Mauby is still boiled in backyards, lobster comes off the reef at dusk, and a last population of native iguanas has been bargained back from the edge. The island's volume is set to trade wind and nothing else.

Field notes

10 fruits

  • Sea grape

    Sea grape

    Coccoloba uvifera

    The first fruit of the beach road, purple clusters ripening above white sand. Anguillians eat them warm from the bunch and sometimes ferment them; the trees themselves knit the dunes against the wind.

  • Dunks

    Dunks

    Ziziphus mauritiana

    A small, apple-crisp fruit that turns from green to yellow-brown on scrubby trees in the bush. Children still hunt dunks in the dry season, the taste somewhere between apple and date.

  • Cocoplum

    Cocoplum

    Chrysobalanus icaco

    Low coastal shrubs bearing fruit that looks iced in white or flushed purple. The flesh is dry-sweet and cottony, a dune crop that asks nothing of the thin limestone soil.

  • Guinep

    Genip

    Melicoccus bijugatus

    Bunches of green fruit sold from buckets, the pulp tart and slipping off a large seed. Genip season is a social season: you stand in the shade and talk with your mouth full.

  • Mango

    Mango

    Mangifera indica

    Yard trees fruit in the wet months, dropping sweet, sometimes fibrous mangoes onto limestone yards. On an island this dry, a laden mango tree is a kind of wealth.

  • Papaya

    Pawpaw

    Carica papaya

    Pawpaw grows easily behind the house, eaten ripe at breakfast or cooked green with saltfish. It is the reliable fruit of Anguilla's heat, producing when mango holds back.

  • Soursop

    Soursop

    Annona muricata

    Spiny and heavy, pulled from trees in sheltered spots and blended into a cold, creamy juice. Leaves go into the bush tea that starts a holiday Monday.

  • Tamarind

    Tamarind

    Tamarindus indica

    Shade trees with sour pods, boiled into a brown drink or sucked raw with a wince. Tamarind likes Anguilla's drought, and the islands have never been without it.

  • Sugar apple

    Sugar apple

    Annona squamosa

    A segmented green fruit that yields sweet custard when it yields at all. It is an old yard tree here, fruiting in the heat for anyone patient enough to wait for softness.

  • Coconut

    Coconut

    Cocos nucifera

    Palms line the beaches and the older villages, offering water from young nuts and milk for the kitchen. On an island with no rivers, the coconut is a well that grows in the sand.