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Aruba · Papiamento

Aruba

Trade-wind desert, cactus fruit, a shoco's yellow stare

Xiomara

Your host · Papiamento

Xiomara

Island host

Xiomara speaks Papiamento the way the trade wind speaks: quick, bright, and from all directions at once. She grew up in the mondi, where shoco stare from cactus shade and donkeys still claim the road.

Aruba is the Caribbean turned arid: trade winds, limestone, and cadushi cactus instead of rainforest. Papiamento carries the day, Balashi comes cold from the brewery, and the shoco — a burrowing owl — watches from a hole in the caliche. Donkeys still claim the mondi roads as if the island were theirs.

Field notes

10 fruits

  • Cactus tuna

    Tuna

    Opuntia dillenii

    The prickly-pear fruit of Aruba's mondi, magenta or yellow once the glochids are burned off. Tuna is eaten chilled, juiced, or turned into jam, a desert harvest in a place that looks like it should not fruit at all.

  • Sea grape

    Druif

    Coccoloba uvifera

    Coastal trees bearing clusters of fruit that locals call druif, eaten off the bunch or fermented into a rustic wine. They are the green edge between caliche and sea.

  • Tamarind

    Tamarinde

    Tamarindus indica

    A tree of the dry island, dropping sour-sweet pods that become juice, sweets, and a cooling drink. Tamarinde likes Aruba's drought the way tourists like the wind.

  • West Indian cherry

    Shimarucu

    Malpighia emarginata

    Aruba's favourite wild fruit: small red cherries so full of vitamin C they pucker, picked from roadside trees whenever a car pulls over. Generations stop for shimarucu; the habit is older than the highway.

  • Mango

    Mango

    Mangifera indica

    Yard trees in the more sheltered cunucu still fruit in summer, a luxury on an arid island. When a mango comes in, it is shared across the fence in a paper bag.

  • Papaya

    Papaya

    Carica papaya

    Grown in gardens that catch a little extra water, eaten at breakfast or blended into juice. Papaya is one of the fruits that consented to Aruba's heat.

  • Kenepa

    Kenepa

    Melicoccus bijugatus

    Spanish lime by another name: green skin, slick orange pulp, a seed to spit. Kenepa season is sticky fingers and talk in the shade of the tree.

  • Soursop

    Sorsaka

    Annona muricata

    A textbook Papiamento word as much as a fruit: sorsaka, spiny, blended into a creamy juice. It grows where a garden can spare the water, and the flavour is the island's idea of dessert.

  • Passion fruit

    Markusa

    Passiflora edulis

    Vines on fences yield markusa, wrinkled and aromatic, juiced into a tart drink that stands up to the wind. It is one of the few lush flavours on a cactus island.

  • Guava

    Guyaba

    Psidium guajava

    Fragrant, seedy, and boiled into paste or juice in cunucu kitchens. Guyaba trees hold on in old yards, a sweet that does not need rainforest.