Twenty islands. Local hosts.

Aruba · Papiamento
Trade-wind desert, cactus fruit, a shoco's yellow stare

Your host · Papiamento
Island host
Xiomara speaks Papiamento the way the trade wind speaks: quick, bright, and from all directions at once. She grew up in the mondi, where shoco stare from cactus shade and donkeys still claim the road.
Aruba is the Caribbean turned arid: trade winds, limestone, and cadushi cactus instead of rainforest. Papiamento carries the day, Balashi comes cold from the brewery, and the shoco — a burrowing owl — watches from a hole in the caliche. Donkeys still claim the mondi roads as if the island were theirs.
10 fruits
Cactus tuna
Tuna
Opuntia dillenii
The prickly-pear fruit of Aruba's mondi, magenta or yellow once the glochids are burned off. Tuna is eaten chilled, juiced, or turned into jam, a desert harvest in a place that looks like it should not fruit at all.
Sea grape
Druif
Coccoloba uvifera
Coastal trees bearing clusters of fruit that locals call druif, eaten off the bunch or fermented into a rustic wine. They are the green edge between caliche and sea.
Tamarind
Tamarinde
Tamarindus indica
A tree of the dry island, dropping sour-sweet pods that become juice, sweets, and a cooling drink. Tamarinde likes Aruba's drought the way tourists like the wind.
West Indian cherry
Shimarucu
Malpighia emarginata
Aruba's favourite wild fruit: small red cherries so full of vitamin C they pucker, picked from roadside trees whenever a car pulls over. Generations stop for shimarucu; the habit is older than the highway.
Mango
Mango
Mangifera indica
Yard trees in the more sheltered cunucu still fruit in summer, a luxury on an arid island. When a mango comes in, it is shared across the fence in a paper bag.
Papaya
Papaya
Carica papaya
Grown in gardens that catch a little extra water, eaten at breakfast or blended into juice. Papaya is one of the fruits that consented to Aruba's heat.
Kenepa
Kenepa
Melicoccus bijugatus
Spanish lime by another name: green skin, slick orange pulp, a seed to spit. Kenepa season is sticky fingers and talk in the shade of the tree.
Soursop
Sorsaka
Annona muricata
A textbook Papiamento word as much as a fruit: sorsaka, spiny, blended into a creamy juice. It grows where a garden can spare the water, and the flavour is the island's idea of dessert.
Passion fruit
Markusa
Passiflora edulis
Vines on fences yield markusa, wrinkled and aromatic, juiced into a tart drink that stands up to the wind. It is one of the few lush flavours on a cactus island.
Guava
Guyaba
Psidium guajava
Fragrant, seedy, and boiled into paste or juice in cunucu kitchens. Guyaba trees hold on in old yards, a sweet that does not need rainforest.