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Turks and Caicos Islands · English

Turks and Caicos

Limestone cays where sea grape salts the breeze

Devon

Your host · English

Devon

Cay host

Devon grew up running the ironshore of Providenciales and still measures a good day by the colour of the water. He hosts as a Belonger would: slow, salty, and sure you will taste something pulled from the flats.

Forty low islands and cays sit on a limestone bank so pale the sea turns turquoise for miles. Belongers still pull conch from the flats, squeeze switcha from backyard limes, and guard the rock iguanas that outlived the salt rakers. This is a dry, bright archipelago: dune, salina, and barrier reef, not rainforest.

Field notes

10 fruits

  • Sea grape

    Sea grape

    Coccoloba uvifera

    Clusters of purple fruit hang over the ironshore, tasting of brine and grape skins. Belongers eat them off the bunch, cook them into jam, and let iguanas finish what the tide does not take.

  • Sugar apple

    Sugar apple

    Annona squamosa

    For generations this was the islands' main backyard sweet: a knobbly green globe that splits into custard segments around black seeds. It still fruits in settlement yards on Middle Caicos and Providenciales when little else will.

  • Key lime

    Local lime

    Citrus x aurantiifolia

    Small, thin-skinned, and fiercely aromatic, these limes are the soul of switcha. Trees lean over kitchen gardens and roadside fences, fruiting through the heat that would wither sweeter citrus.

  • Tamarind

    Tamarind

    Tamarindus indica

    Brittle brown pods crack to a sour-sweet pulp that children suck on the walk home. The trees throw deep shade over old settlements and flavour sauces, sweets, and cooling drinks.

  • Papaya

    Pawpaw

    Carica papaya

    Pawpaw rises on a single trunk in yards from Grand Turk to South Caicos, the orange flesh eaten at breakfast or stewed green as a savoury. It is one of the few fruits that shrugs off the islands' drought.

  • Cocoplum

    Cocoplum

    Chrysobalanus icaco

    A coastal shrub of the dunes, bearing white-to-purple fruit with a cottony, faintly sweet flesh around a large stone. It holds sand in place and feeds both people and the rock iguana.

  • Guinep

    Kenep

    Melicoccus bijugatus

    Green-skinned and sold in bunches, kenep hides a slick, tart pulp around a big seed. Crack it with your teeth, talk while you work the fruit free, and spit the seed toward the nearest fence.

  • Coconut

    Coconut

    Cocos nucifera

    Palms lean over Grace Bay and the older settlements alike. Young nuts are chopped for water; mature flesh is grated into tarts, run-down sauces, and the coconut rum that marks a Turks and Caicos punch.

  • Mango

    Mango

    Mangifera indica

    Mango trees are treasures on these dry cays, fruiting in a brief summer rush of stringy, resinous, sun-hot flesh. Neighbours still send a box across the fence when a tree comes in.

  • Soursop

    Soursop

    Annona muricata

    Spiky green fruit, grown in sheltered yards, yields a creamy pulp that is tart, floral, and almost never eaten neat. Blended with a little sugar and lime, it becomes a Sunday drink.