Twenty islands. Local hosts.

Turks and Caicos Islands · English
Limestone cays where sea grape salts the breeze

Your host · English
Cay host
Devon grew up running the ironshore of Providenciales and still measures a good day by the colour of the water. He hosts as a Belonger would: slow, salty, and sure you will taste something pulled from the flats.
Forty low islands and cays sit on a limestone bank so pale the sea turns turquoise for miles. Belongers still pull conch from the flats, squeeze switcha from backyard limes, and guard the rock iguanas that outlived the salt rakers. This is a dry, bright archipelago: dune, salina, and barrier reef, not rainforest.
10 fruits
Sea grape
Sea grape
Coccoloba uvifera
Clusters of purple fruit hang over the ironshore, tasting of brine and grape skins. Belongers eat them off the bunch, cook them into jam, and let iguanas finish what the tide does not take.
Sugar apple
Sugar apple
Annona squamosa
For generations this was the islands' main backyard sweet: a knobbly green globe that splits into custard segments around black seeds. It still fruits in settlement yards on Middle Caicos and Providenciales when little else will.
Key lime
Local lime
Citrus x aurantiifolia
Small, thin-skinned, and fiercely aromatic, these limes are the soul of switcha. Trees lean over kitchen gardens and roadside fences, fruiting through the heat that would wither sweeter citrus.
Tamarind
Tamarind
Tamarindus indica
Brittle brown pods crack to a sour-sweet pulp that children suck on the walk home. The trees throw deep shade over old settlements and flavour sauces, sweets, and cooling drinks.
Papaya
Pawpaw
Carica papaya
Pawpaw rises on a single trunk in yards from Grand Turk to South Caicos, the orange flesh eaten at breakfast or stewed green as a savoury. It is one of the few fruits that shrugs off the islands' drought.
Cocoplum
Cocoplum
Chrysobalanus icaco
A coastal shrub of the dunes, bearing white-to-purple fruit with a cottony, faintly sweet flesh around a large stone. It holds sand in place and feeds both people and the rock iguana.
Guinep
Kenep
Melicoccus bijugatus
Green-skinned and sold in bunches, kenep hides a slick, tart pulp around a big seed. Crack it with your teeth, talk while you work the fruit free, and spit the seed toward the nearest fence.
Coconut
Coconut
Cocos nucifera
Palms lean over Grace Bay and the older settlements alike. Young nuts are chopped for water; mature flesh is grated into tarts, run-down sauces, and the coconut rum that marks a Turks and Caicos punch.
Mango
Mango
Mangifera indica
Mango trees are treasures on these dry cays, fruiting in a brief summer rush of stringy, resinous, sun-hot flesh. Neighbours still send a box across the fence when a tree comes in.
Soursop
Soursop
Annona muricata
Spiky green fruit, grown in sheltered yards, yields a creamy pulp that is tart, floral, and almost never eaten neat. Blended with a little sugar and lime, it becomes a Sunday drink.